ROME — With the upcoming conclave to elect a new pope just days away, the atmosphere in the Vatican is both somber and filled with anticipation. For the first time in nearly half a century, the Vatican’s renowned tailors have not received official orders for a papal wardrobe to prepare for the new leader of the Catholic Church.
Ranieri Mancinelli, who has been a fixture near the Vatican since the 1960s, is taking matters into his own hands. He is crafting three simple white cassocks in various sizes, aiming to be ready for whoever may be elected. “I want to ensure that the next pope has a choice of garments, without knowing his specific measurements,” Mancinelli shared.
Across the city, Gammarelli, another prestigious ecclesiastical tailor, has a legacy that dates back to 1798. For over a century, it has provided garments for every papal conclave, maintaining meticulous records of orders. This year marks a notable departure from tradition, as the Vatican has opted not to place an order. Lorenzo Gammarelli, representing the family’s sixth generation, noted that the last time this occurred was during the October 1978 conclave that followed the brief papacy of John Paul I.
While Gammarelli refrained from speculating on the reasons for this decision, Italian press has suggested that an abundance of unworn cassocks exists. Additionally, it may reflect Pope Francis’ commitment to environmental and economic sustainability. “It’s disappointing, as the excitement of creating new garments for the next pope would have been a beautiful aspect during this time of mourning,” Gammarelli said.
As the conclave begins, the papal wardrobe typically includes essential items such as a hand-stitched white wool cassock, complete with a sash and silk cape. Traditionally, the cassock features a papal seal embroidered into the sash. However, Pope Francis has notably shunned some of these customary adornments, opting for a simpler and more practical style.
Gammarelli’s preparation also involves selecting appropriate footwear to ensure that the new pope is comfortable while addressing the public for the first time. In line with the conclave’s secrecy, the tailor does not disclose pricing details, keeping an aura of mystique around the garments made for the papacy.
The upcoming conclave has reignited speculation over who might succeed Pope Francis. Gammarelli has a particular method for preparing for the unexpected. “We analyze the profiles of potential candidates among the cardinals, considering their measurements to determine the best fit for our cassocks,” he said.
Past experiences remind Gammarelli of the unpredictability of papal selections. He recalled the surprise of Polish Cardinal Karol Wojtyla’s election in 1978, as well as their earlier assumptions about Jorge Mario Bergoglio in 2005, a name that resurfaced when Bergoglio was elected in 2013.
Notably, in previous conclaves, the fit of the papal cassock has even led to humor, such as when Pope John XXIII made an appearance in a cassock held together with safety pins due to a sizing error. Throughout Francis’ papacy, Gammarelli has encouraged the pope to adopt lighter-colored trousers, offering a modern touch that Francis has thus far declined.
In his workshop near the Vatican, Mancinelli reflects on the significance of his craft. Having tailored cassocks for three successive popes, he emphasized Francis’ preference for simplicity. “His style has always been focused on practicality and cost-effectiveness,” he noted, highlighting a departure from opulence.
As the anticipation builds for the conclave, the world will watch closely. Soon, the announcement of “Habemus Papam!” from the Vatican’s balcony will unveil not only the identity of the new pope but also the style choices he may carry into his tenure, whether they continue the minimalist trend or embrace the traditional opulence of the papacy.