West Hollywood, California — Somni, a restaurant renowned for its innovative tasting menus, has achieved a significant milestone by earning its third Michelin star during a recent ceremony in Sacramento. This prestigious recognition places Somni among a select group of only 16 establishments in the United States to hold such an honor, alongside Providence, a restaurant located just four miles away in Hollywood.
The journey to this achievement has not been without challenges. After opening in late 2018, Somni faced a pandemic-induced closure in 2020. Chef Aitor Zabala, who honed his culinary skills under the guidance of José Andrés in Barcelona, remained committed to his vision. When Somni reopened in November 2021, it did so with renewed energy and acclaim.
With only 14 exclusive seats available, reservations at Somni have become increasingly sought after. Each dining experience is a carefully devised journey featuring approximately 25 intricately crafted courses. The experience comes at a premium, costing around $500 per person, or $720 for a wine pairing. Despite the high price tag, food enthusiasts are eager to secure spots, which become available once a month through a reservation system.
Zabala shared his thoughts on the meaning behind the third star in a recent interview. He emphasized the significance of this recognition in a competitive culinary landscape, where only around 150 restaurants globally have achieved the same status. He noted that the Michelin designation communicates the restaurant’s worthiness of a dedicated visit from food lovers worldwide.
Originally from Barcelona, Zabala attributed his move to Los Angeles to both personal and professional circumstances. An economic downturn in Spain prompted him to pursue his dream of owning a restaurant. His initial relocation brought him to Washington, D.C., where he wasn’t entirely thrilled. However, a visit to Los Angeles captivated him with its climate and fresh produce, drawing parallels with his hometown.
The creative essence of Somni’s menu is born from Zabala’s passion for innovation. During the restaurant’s extended closure, the team utilized their downtime to develop new ideas in their test kitchen, focusing on creating emotionally resonant dishes. Zabala faced the daunting task of rebuilding after a five-year hiatus, navigating rising ingredient costs and operational challenges in the post-pandemic landscape.
Despite these obstacles, Zabala remains resolute about the restaurant’s pricing structure. He explained that the cost reflects the quality and effort of the dining experience, which includes a high staff-to-guest ratio to ensure exceptional service. While increasing prices can be controversial, he believes patrons appreciate the value of the culinary journey they undertake.
Operating a restaurant amid economic uncertainty requires considerable faith, according to Zabala. The mounting expenses from wages to rent and tariffs on imported goods have created a challenging environment for restaurateurs. He underscored that both fine dining and casual establishments are grappling with narrow profit margins, making it a risky venture to launch new dining concepts.
As for the reservation process, there is no leeway for special treatment. No matter the status of potential guests, the same online reservation system applies to all. Given the limited seating, Zabala mentioned that accommodating walk-ins isn’t feasible, as it would disrupt the restaurant’s delicate balance of capacity and profitability.
Zabala’s vision extends beyond mere accolades; he aims to craft memorable experiences through his dishes. In a climate where many in the hospitality industry feel the strain, he remains optimistic about the future of culinary arts. This recognition fuels his commitment to not only thrive but inspire others who share a passion for creating impactful dining experiences.